A desperate sheet of rain greeted us the evening we landed in Guwahati, Assam. The month was March and it seemed inevitable that we will have to befriend the clouds in order to have a pleasant time in Guwahati. As our Uber driver drove us towards our Airbnb, I settled back in the car to take in the sights. Now, I must confess I am relying on my memory to guide me through this post, for it is now September and I have let my laziness dominate my writing. But I do remember a sensory attack of verdure, and hence peacefulness settling itself on my shoulder like vapor.
I remember our Uber driving us past a pond, the cacophony of ducks piercing the otherwise thick darkness settling over the city. Since our Airbnb host was at work, we were encouraged to explore the house by ourselves. My parents took the master bedroom, leaving me to make myself at home on a single bed in the living room. As a rule, I do not like sharing a bedroom with my parents when we travel together. I am not a rotten child; I just do not appreciate my dad playing his nose like a flute in the worst manner possible throughout the night.
The house brought back memories of Delhi because of its spaciousness. Please excuse such an odd observation, I am from Bombay, we hold spaciousness in high esteem. A giant mirror placed in the living room instantly caught my attention, I had never seen the likes of it. Now, I am not vain, I have been known to walk past mirrors and reflective surfaces in public while my other girlfriends greet their reflection with confidence. I am merely awkward when confronted with my reflection in public, I do not know the accepted social decorum that must be observed at such a moment. But this mirror was taller than my list of interests, dwarfing me completely.
I soon slipped into an exhaustion induced sleep, waking up only when my Baba’s voice twined itself in my dream. The intrusion let me know it was morning. My father and I are much alike, unable to just be, our hands itch for occupancy. He had already prepared our tea and arranged a table in the balcony adjoining their bedroom. I wish I could explain the surprise a city dweller experiences when they hear sweet bird calls, not just the cooing of pigeons and cawing of crows. Outside our netted window, strange birds were calling out to each other, zipping through the numerous trees and giving us glimpses of their brilliantly colored feathers. That, and a cup of chai on a rainy morning? Simple joys, my friend. Just as I settled myself in my chair with a book, my Baba said we were getting late.
“Late for what?”
“Kamakhya Temple”
“Uh right”
I am an atheist, but I also love my parents. So, I agreed to get dressed and accompany them to the temple. My parents aren’t big on religion, they like their Gods from a distance, something I am relieved about. Kamakhya temple is a Hindu temple built as a sign of devotion towards the Goddess Kamakhya. To enter the main temple, one must queue up in what appeared to be cages. The queue stretched a long way and I must say, it was a jarring sight to take in. Kamakhya is also known for animal sacrifices that are done as part of rituals conducted there. It is said that no female animal is allowed to be sacrificed as the temple is devoted to a Goddess and is known as a symbol of women’s power and fertility. If the sight of diseased goats sickens you, you may want to give this place a miss because frankly, I was uncomfortable there the entire time. We were only in Guwahati for 2 nights, since our main destination was Shillong. If you ever find yourself in Guwahati and would like to eat local cuisine, may I suggest going to Michinga? Everything from the service, decor and finally the food was delicious and lovely. Michinga can be found in Uzan Bazaar. All in all, what I miss about Guwahati is our Airbnb and the muted light that hung around the apartment like gold dust, my father cutting up sweet oranges for me to eat out in the verandah and me allowing my limbs to dowse themselves in a soporiferousness.
P.S. I stayed at Cosy Nook in Guwahati and it was absolutely the best. Our host Mehtaj was extremely sweet too. Do consider her place if visiting Guwahati. It’s also quite easy to get to and fro.
If another few months of procrastination does not engulf me, you might see a post about Shillong here soon. Till then, if you are still here reading this, thank you and goodbye!